Paris Notes

Extended weather forecast

Paris, France — Sunrise, sunset, moon times for today - their solar noon is quite late (around 1:45 pm in the summer/autumn) which helps to explain why their worktimes and mealtimes are also quite late.

Agoda's web page for Hotel de Varenne  -  44 Bourgogne Street, 07. Tour Eiffel - Invalides, Paris, France 75007 between Rue de Grenelle and Rue de Varenne

Restaurants near Hotel de Varenne - from gogobot.com

Taxis in Paris - I wish we had taken the phone numbers of taxi services, since we did get stranded near the Eiffel Tower late at night!

Trip Advisor's Paris Map View

Paris in September from goparis.about.com and the calendar of the Assemblee Nationale

Rick Steves' Paris website (with updates to his 2014 guide book), his travel apps, and travel tips.  The section on Tourist Scams and Rip-Offs is a must read! [We were approached four times with the petition scam!]
Print out all Rick Steves' maps that go along with his audioguide tours.

Terminal 1 Map (terminal for United Airlines and US Airways). (more detailed map) - Eating outlets in this area include Alpha Bravo, La Malle a Cade, Phileas and Caffe Ritazza. Retail stores in this terminal include Virgin, La Cure Gournamde, L’Occitane and Swatch.
Walk counterclockwise around the terminal to find the T1 (door 6, ask where to buy a Paris Museum Pass).
Walk clockwise to get to ground transportation.  Taxis are at door 24.
Suggested strategy - plan to meet right outside baggage claim at the official Point de Rendez-Vous between doors 34 and 36.
While one person is waiting in line for the official taxi stand, the other can be purchasing a Paris Museum Pass and some "Carnets" or booklets of 10 bus/Metro tickets.
We weren't able to get bus maps or schedules from the official information stand, but they might be available for purchase at the shops.  I suggest pre-downloading routes and schedules for 24, 28, 38, 42, 63, 68, 69, 72, 73, 82, 83, 87, 96 before you leave home.
Wi-fi is said to be spotty and slow at the airport.

NOTE - On your way home, shop at the duty-free Laduree Paris at the airport to purchase gifts for home!!!  On last day, go to Laduree at the airport!!!  They're located in terminals 2F1, 2F2, 2E (Zone sous douane) 2E Zone publique, AC, S4, 2E Satellite 3.  There was also a duty-free shop inside security in Terminal 1.

Our Itinerary, sort of

 Take bus to Bateaux Parisiens (near Eiffel Tower)

The 69 bus goes from very near the hotel to the Eiffel Tower in 12 minutes from 19h03 to bus at 19h04 from the Bourgogne stop (direction Champ de Mars) off at Rapp - la Bourdonnais at 19h11
Check-in at pontoon no. 5 and no. 7 (Quai (or Pont?) de la Bourdonnais 75007 Paris) from 7 pm to 8.15 pm, Departure at 8.30 pm, Return to quay at 11 pm

8:30pm on board an entirely glass-encased boat, you'll be in on the secret of the city of lights, the cuisine is meticulously presented, the service is attentive and discreet, your eyes will sparkle as never before... This is a must-do, a cultural and very Parisian experience that is unique and must be shared!  Lauren's cell phone w/my account.  Work on those sparkling eyes, team!


Money - Interbank Exchange Rates, (1.294E to $1 on Sept. 6)

How to Travel in France with a Credit or Debit Card

BNP Paribas Branches and ATMs in Paris - my page for faster loading!

You can see ATM locations thusly:www.bnp.fr

Branches and ATMs in Paris
List of BNP Paribas Branches and ATMs in Paris, France with addresses and contact phone numbers.  Read more »

http://banksfrance.com/france/paris

http://banksfrance.com/atms/bnp-paribas-branches-and-atms-in-paris

https://www.secure.bnpparibas.net/banque/portail/particulier/Fiche?type=fiche&identifiant=Categorie_Region_20021219163230

Click "Trouver une agence" (down the left side); Ville: Paris; Check "Distributeurs de billets"; Click "Rechercher"; You will then need to select the arrondissement to get a list.
As has been noted, they are *everywhere*


Buses

Overview of bus system

Where to buy carnets - You can buy your carnets at the RATP desk at CDG or at any staffed ticket window at any Métro or RER station. You can also buy them at some 1500 outlets throughout the city.
The one nearest our hotel is TABAC, 13,rue de Bourgogne (fermeture le dimanche)

Always keep handy your validated tickets for the journey you are taking, as you can be asked to produce them at any time. On-the-spot fines are heavy and tourists are shown no mercy.

Individual Route Maps
Bus routes for sightseeing - 69, 87, 24, 63, 73

How to Use Paris Public Transportation - Metro, Bus and RER from goparis.about.com
Certain bus routes are particularly scenic and can be a cheap alternative to Paris bus tours.

    Line 38 runs north to south through the city center and provides memorable views of the Latin Quarter, the Seine river, or Notre Dame Cathedral.
    
    Line 68 offers a vantage of the Musee d'Orsay, Saint-Germain des Pres, the Seine, The Louvre, and the Opéra Garnier.
    
    Line 28 offers lovely views of the Ecole Militaire, the Assemblée Nationale, the Seine River, the Grand Palais, and the Champs-Elysées.
    
    Line 96 winds through beautiful spots on the right bank, including Hotel de Ville, the medieval Marais neighborhood, and trendy Bastille.

Official Paris City Bus Site - They have their own app!  Here's the detailed map of the transport system.
City Buses in Paris, France
They have a fun interactive map so you can highlight just that line (click to get times) and a route planner.  Here are the timetables!
The 63 bus goes from from Assemblee Nationale (direction Gare de Lyon) up to Maubert - Mutualite
Then we can walk from Linda's old dorm to Reid Hall, past the Luxembourg Gardens.
Then the 82 bus comes back from Vavin (X Montparnasse at 16h10) (direction Hopital Americain) up to Vauban  - Hotel des Invalides (at 16h19)

The Montmartrobuses run quite frequently—about every 10 or 12 minutes—and go from the Pigalle Métro station to the very top of the hill at Place du Mont Cenis, in front of the Église de Saint-Pierre de Montmartre, next to Place du Tertre, making this an even better up-the-hill method than the Funiculaire du Montmartre if you don't like to climb steps. (The Funiculaire doesn't start at the bottom of the hill, and it doesn't go all the way to the top.)

Sights

The Paris Museum Pass 

Make reservations to go up the Eiffel Tower 2-3 months in advance!  Oooops!  Sometimes there's a last-minute cancellation, so we'll keep trying!
Another option - "Cafe Carlu (1 place du Trocadero 75116) is a local secret and you will be hard pressed to find a review in English but here goes. First off it is not so much a Cafe as a self serve coffee shop but what it offers for the price of a soda or water is beyond value. So here is my secret tip for one of the best views in Paris without the crowds and all for a few Euros...oh I forgot to tell you there is a bathroom for free. So here is the scoop....at the Trocadero (viewing point for the Eiffel tower) you are standing between two museums. The one on the left when facing the Eiffel tower is the Architecture Museum. A beautiful museum in its own right but the secret is that even though it looks foreboding from the outside you can just walk in..at first you will see a man (security) who will look into your bag or your backpack but once that is over you walk straight in past the ticket booths toward the 3 story wall of glass and you will be at the seating area of Cafe Carlu....very casual no waiters, no table clothes just an excellent view of the Eiffel tower with a snack bar for good coffee and sandwiches. This is an oasis in the midst of the tourism chaos just out the door...plus you can sit on the private outside terrace for an even more amazing view. If you need to potty just go down the stairs to the left of the cafe...no fee. I also highly recommend the museum as it is full of excellent architecture details. So if it all becomes a bit much for you do as the French do and enter the museum and have a coffee without the tourists.
tip...opens at 11am " [Post-trip review . . . I did not enjoy going up the Eiffel Tower as much as I had imagined I would.  You're crammed into a large elevator (one per pillar, some not working); we had people sneezing and coughing all around us, and some were not particular about hygiene.  It's a miracle nobody got sick on this trip!  In retrospect, it would have been more fun to take a picnic and enjoy the view of the tower for an hour or so during the day.  And then go to Cafe Carlu when it's open late on Thursdays to enjoy watching the lights come on.  The laser show might be fun, too.]




Chocolate / Pastries

Paris Chocolate Walk Itineraries

Chocolate Walk 2 – Saint-Germain-des-Prés to Odéon - This walk takes you to visit just a few of the most well-known chocolatiers and pastry shops in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés district. It is designed for those with more limited time. (This is shorter and misses two main chocolate shops, but it includes the Patrick Roger shop where David Lebovitz worked.  This shop is also close to the Patisserie Viennoise, which DL recommends as the best hot chocolate!)  The two shops from Chocolate Walk 1 that we miss are Laduree and Debauve & Gallais.  The latter is of important historical significant and was frequented by Balzac, Proust and Brillat-Savarin, but we could live without visiting it.  There is an even fancier Laduree shop near the Place de la Concorde (head of Champs Elysees), which is a don't miss!  Check out their catalog!!!

Paris chocolate shops by arrondissement - our 7th and the nearby 6th

Paris pastry shops by arrondissement - our 7th and the nearby 6th

Best Hot Chocolate in Paris - David Lebovitz suggests Chocolat chaud at Patisserie Viennoise (be sure to ask at other places whether they make their chocolate chaud "a la ancienne", i.e. not from a mix.) They tend to add a lot of whipped cream (chantilly).Address: 8 rue de l’École de Médicine, 75006
Métro: Saint Michel, Cluny-La Sorbonne, Odéon
Tél: 01 43 26 60 48
Hours: Monday-Friday, 9am-7pm. Closed Saturday and Sunday

Note that this post (mlfetterman Dec 30, 2013) claims that the Mont Blanc from Patisserie Des Reves is better than the one from Angelina's. I find that hard to believe, but one must follow up on these leads!
"They make theirs in a small tart shell crust with chestnut puree, then what looks like Chantilly cream, finally topped with the chestnut cream "spaghetti". Not sure if/where the meringue was hidden.We thought it all tasted much lighter than Angelina's, which we both thought was very heavy. We also liked the taste of the tart shell rather than it just being served in the cup."2

For future reference, consult: The Best Patisseries in Paris By Peter

Restaurants

Le Grand Colbert, 2, Rue Vivienne reservation, 75002 Paris  - 3 people  For THURSDAY, 18 September 2014 at 18:30
Booking number : MBCRPEFP


Kate recommends MARIAGE FRÈRES Rive Gauche Tea Salon - this is a chain with a number of locations [Yelp locations]- we'll be close to the Louvre location and might want to eat a meal there, too. 

Their Louvre Salon offers an Afternoon Tea from 3 - 6:30 pm.  Their Brunch is from noon to 7pm - these are MY KIND OF PEOPLE!!!  Then again, it's pricey, I'm not thrilled by the menu, and I'm not really a fan of tea.  Maybe a skip!
Salon de The - Louvre, Carrousel du Louvre, Paris 1er (Metro Tuileries) 01 40 20 18 54 for reservations  (Kate went to the one at L’Étoile Manquante 34 rue Vieille du temple, 75004 Paris.)

One is on the way to l'Ile de la Cite and Notre Dame - 13 rue Grands Augustins, 75006 Paris, open 10:30 to 7:30, serves light meals

All less-expensive food places on Yelp within 4 blocks of the hotel:


Besnier Pere et Fils, [Yelp] [Trip advisor] A FEW DOORS DOWN FROM THE HOTEL!!! - 40 rue de Bourgogne, 75007 Paris, France, 0145512429 - MACARONS TO BRING BACK


Pre-configured links to Yelps categories within 4 blocks of our hotel:

French - within 4 blocks - within 1 mile
Bistros - within 4 blocks - within 1 mile
Cafes - within 4 blocks - within 1 mile
Brasseries - within 4 blocks - within 1 mile
Creperies - within 4 blocks - within 1 mile
Italian - within 4 blocks - within 1 mile
Specialty Food - within 4 blocks - within 1 mile
Restaraunts - within 4 blocks - within 1 mile
Fast food - within 4 blocks - within 1 mile
Bakeries - within 4 blocks - within 1 mile
Grocery - within 4 blocks - within 1 mile


Food places near Reid Hall (4 Rue de Chevreuse) - within 4 blocks - within 1 mile

La Grande Épicerie (Delicatessen / Grocery Store) is said to be the Whole Foods of Paris . . . get your gourmet foods here!  38 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris  Very close to Reid Hall!

Food places near Linda's old dorm (4 Rue des Bernardins) - within 4 blocks - within 1 mile

Le Petit Pontoise

http://www.yelp.com/biz/le-petit-pontoise-paris
This restaurant got great reviews!!!


MY FAVES

*********** Aux Ducs de Bourgogne 2 half blocks from the hotel (A creperie / saladerie) [Yelp] - 30 rue Bourgogne, 75007 Paris - 01 45 51 32 48 - they offer crepes to go!  Hours: 11:30 - 3p, 7 to 10 pm, closed Sat. and Sun.  They have a wonderful selection of crepes, galettes and salads, including a salmon salad, boiled egg salad.

CREPES!!! on the way to/from the Eiffel Tower - Le Crepuscule (love the pun!), 18 Rue Amelie | (Metro la Tour-Maubourg Line 8), 75007 Paris, France [Trip Advisor] - (Eiffel Tower / Invalides / Palais-Bourbon)

Cafe Varenne, 36, rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris, France - [Yelp] [Trip Advisor] RIGHT out of the hotel for a half block to a LEFT on Rue de Varenne 2 long blocks to Rue de Bac.  Great spot for breakfast!  Adorable shops around it!


La Laiterie, Paris - Restaurant Reviews - TripAdvisor
www.tripadvisor.com  › …  › Paris  › Paris Restaurants
Jun 26, 2014 · La Laiterie, Paris: See 35 unbiased reviews of La Laiterie, rated 4.5 of 5 on TripAdvisor and ranked #2,190 of 12,615 restaurants in Paris.

Michelin-rated Restaurants near the hotel:

Auguste, 54 r. de Bourgogne 75007 Paris 07, Cuisine : modern, From 35 EUR to 115 EUR, no English menu.

Le 122, 122 r. de Grenelle 75007 Paris 07, Distance : <0.1 mi, From 26 EUR to 52 EUR, lunch for 18.5 to 26 euros, salmon and roast chicken lunch menu. Maybe consider this for a lunch on our first day?
La Laiterie Sainte Clotilde, 64 r. de Bellechasse 75007 Paris 07, [Yelp]  [Trip Advisor] Cuisine : Traditional, From 24 EUR to 35 EUR, Lunch 20€ - Menu: 24€ (lunch) - Carte: 31€-42€ - A former dairy (late 19C), with a nostalgia for Bobo decoration, cultivated with mismatched formica chairs, a large red sofa and a part-bistro, part-homemade brand of cooking. Soup of the day, grilled hanger steak with sautéed new potatoes, roast hake with sorrel sauce... So good!

Chez Graff, 62 r. de Bellechasse 75007 Paris 07, Cuisine : Traditional, From 25 EUR to 40 EUR, Lunch 21€ - Menu: 25€ (weekday lunch) Carte approx.: 40€, Solid wood tables, large mirrors and old photos in frames...This bistro is in the spirit of the 1960s, revamped 2013 style! It serves good French cuisine - endive salad, suprême de volaille du Gers, chocolate mousse - and platters of cold cuts and cheese. Friendly atmosphere guaranteed!






L'Arpège - [Their web page] 0.09 mi from Hotel de Varenne - lunch and dinner, very expensive.  Hmmmmm.  It looks like you could easily spend 300 Euros on dinner.  Then again, it might be fun to go for their 42-Euro profiteroles!!!

Le Lotus Blanc - 0.02 mi from Hotel de Varenne - 45 Rue Bourgogne, 75007 Paris, France - "A walking distance from Rodin's museum, there is a small Vietnamese restaurant.
The owner is very nice and the food is fresh!
If you feel like a Pho, it is a great place to stop for lunch or dinner. "

Ladurée - [Their web page] 75 Champs-Elysees, 75008 Paris, France - Ranked #1 overall in Paris, expensive - best macarons in the world!



France Travel Skills - a YouTube video lecture by Steve Smith, Rick Steves' co-author - this is a nice background of French history and culture.  The first hour is about Paris, and he offers a basic itinerary for 5 days, I think.
Giverny Tour - Monet's Gardens Day Trip from Paris - Bus or Minibus Guided Tour - 79 to 109 Euros by bus or minibus; 
Giverny + Versailles- Whole day with lunch 179/220 euros by bus/minibus



Notes from David Lebovitz on good manners in Paris:

Always say Bonjour Madame/Monsieur/Mademoiselle to everyone in the room, especially salespeople in small shops; think of it as walking into their home.
Similarly, always say Merci Madame/Monsieur/Mademoiselle to everyone in the room when you leave.

When you eat, do not use the edge of your fork as a knife.  Always use a proper knife to cut your food.  This includes cutting sandwiches and burgers rather than eating with your hands.
The exception to the knife rule is that you should not cut salad greens, no matter how big.

Dress w/some flair - no sneakers and fanny packs.  (These also alert the pickpockets that you're a tourist.)

When you order water to drink in a restaurant, you should be specific as to whether sparkling or still, what brand, and what size.  I noted that most will carry Pellegrino or Evian.

But don't order too much water, because you may have trouble finding public restrooms!  Apparently many Parisians drink only wine for hydration, which isn't effective enough to cause a frequent need for the toilet.

If you are presented with a plate of cheese selections, try no more than 3.  Seconds are permitted if invited or there is plenty left.  Never take thirds.

When shopping, feign mild disdain for the products so the salespeople feel they need to provide you with information about the excellent quality of their products.

Watch out for the "bousculeurs" - people who seem to go out of their way to bump into you on the street and get in your way at doorways, escalators, etc.  And they'll cut in line without mercy, so you may really have to stand your ground!

Apparently, Parisians expect high quality linens.  I hadn't thought of Paris as a place to shop for sheets, but I'm thinking about that now.  :-)


These ads for Le Parisien may help us to understand the Parisian personality.  This one has 3, but gets cut off; this one has five.


David Lebovitz suggests that these are an essential part of the Paris experience:

Patrick Rogers' chocolate shop - he apprenticed here for a while.  This shop had the best service of any of the chocolate shops on the chocolate walk.

Chocolat chaud at Patisserie Viennoise (be sure to ask at other places whether they make their chocolate chaud "a la ancienne", i.e. not from a mix.)  [I preferred the hot chocolate at Cafe Varenne, but it was a fun orienteering game to find this shop, and it was charming in a grad school sort of way.]
They tend to add a lot of whipped cream (chantilly).

HEY!  This place is a couple of blocks from the Sorbonne, and not TOO far from our hotel.  It's also on the way to Notre Dame
Address: 8 rue de l’École de Médicine, 75006
Métro: Saint Michel, Cluny-La Sorbonne, Odéon
Tél: 01 43 26 60 48
Hours: Monday-Friday, 9am-7pm. Closed Saturday and Sunday



Here's his up-to-date Paris guide.

David Lebovitz:

What bistros would you recommend to someone visiting Paris today? and Favorite place for breakfast, lunch, and dinner in Paris?


Part of the new wave of cafés, Coutume serves serious coffee drinks along with light & healthy lunch fare. - this is about 3 blocks from our hotel!  :-)
They're recommended for brunch . . . I don't know if that's available on the Tuesday we arrive, but this might be a great place to go after dropping
off our luggage at the hotel.

Practical information


Coutume - their facebook page says "Offer exceptional coffees and to enrich the French coffee culture. "   Cafés, thés, chocolats pure origine, petit-déjeuner, déjeuner, brunch.
Formation barista, dégustations, connaissance du café.
Machines à espresso, produits Hario : V60, siphon, moulins...

Address: 47 rue Babylone, 75007
Nearest transport: Vaneau (10) or Saint François Xavier (13)
Hours: Open every day 
Mon - Fri: 8:00 am - 7:00 pm
Sat - Sun: 10:00 am - 7:00 pm
Reservations: Recommended for brunch
Telephone: 01 45 51 50 47

 

Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse - not that close . . . it's between our hotel and Notre Dame, though.

  Address: 26 rue Saint-Benoît, 75006
Nearest transport: Saint-Germain-des-Prés (4)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 45 48 87 89


You can also listen to a 15-minute interview by Chris Kimball w/David Lebovitz [14:08 to around 29:00]

In short, he recommends a bistro, Les Rubies (sp?) off St. Honore - "Very charming, so the food isn't so important."

Should do - go to a wine bar . . .
and a fromagerie
Go back to the same restaurant . . . the first time you're a stranger, then a guest, then family.

chocolate eclair!


Doctors and Hospitals in Paris - my info


My reviews:

Cafe Varenne - 36 rue Varenne, 75007 Paris

Best Omelettes in Paris!  Fabulous hot chocolate! Our hotel was a couple of blocks away, so we ate here three times during our one-week stay.  They say

that their omelettes are the best in Paris, and I can easily believe that.  They were particularly light and fluffy.  (Be prepared for them to roll

their eyes if you ask for ketchup! and it was my sister, not I!)  David Lebovitz said that the Pâtisserie Viennoise has the best hot chocolate in Paris; I tried both and thought

Cafe Varenne's was better!  After your meal, stroll south on Rue du Bac.  Angelina's has fabulous chestnut cream pastries and a millefeuille to die

for!  There's a linen shop on each side.  There's a chocolate shop on this block and another on the block north of the Cafe.



Aux Ducs de Bourgogne , 30 rue de Bourgogne 75007 Paris - This is a very pleasant, relaxed atmosphere with delicious crepes and salads.  We ate here three times during our one-week stay, and we loved every meal.  Three of us shared one of the entree salads along with a savory crepe (galette) each, and this was so perfectly filling that we never made it to the dessert crepes.  Be warned that the eggs are served sunny side up with the crepes.  I think one of the salads has an "oeuf dur", which I presume to be a hard-boiled egg.  They are closed on weekends.



About the Hotel de Varenne:

I loved just about everything here.  The rooms were very clean, comfortable and quiet.  I really liked the classy/classic decor, especially the

wallpaper and curtains.  They provided electrical outlets for American prongs, so you can charge your iPhone/iPad/iPod devices easily.  They gladly

called taxis for us as needed.  They had loaner full-size umbrellas!  Lunch and afternoon snacks in the courtyard were a delightful respite from the

rigors of sightseeing.  We were up on the fourth floor, so we really appreciated the elevator, which accommodated two adults.  It's an easy walk from

the Musee d'Orsay and l'Orangerie, and close to the bus line that goes to the Marmottan museum.  So this is a dream location for the lover of

Impressionism.  Also, the hotel is just a block and a half from the Esplanade des Invalides, which is a stop for the hop-on/hop-off L'OpenTour bus

system, for general sightseeing and good local transportation.  The little grocery store across the street (Le Diagonal) provided our bottled water

(much less expensive than at the restaurants!), our Greek yogurt, and the occasional pre-packaged salad.  My sister loved the Pims cookies, and I loved

getting Les Petits Ecoliers in an actual French grocery store!  The Tabac down the street sells the carnets (booklets of ten bus/Metro tickets).  We

loved the salads and crepes at Aux Ducs de Bourgogne (30 rue Bourgogne).  My Bank of the West debit card allowed me to use the ATM at the BNP Paribas

bank/ATM on the corner with just a 1% transaction fee on top of the interbank exchange rate; it doesn't get any better!  I loved walking the two blocks

to the Cafe Varenne (corner of Varenne and Rue du Bac) to get an omelette and a hot chocolate.  After your meal at the Cafe Varenne, enjoy the block

south on Rue du Bac - Angelina's pastries are a dream come true for chestnut lovers especially!  I shopped at both the linen shops there, as well.  

More notes at http://www.gentlebirth.org/Paris/  Enjoy your Paris trip!



About Paris in General:

Paris is for lovers of chestnuts and Impressionism!  And anyone else who appreciates fine food, art and beauty.  Most people were helpful.
Overall, I would recommend focusing on the experiences that are available only in Paris.  In truth, I found that most of the two-D art wasn't that

great to look at in person.  An exception is the Impressionistic art, since the colors and the play of light are such an integral part of the beauty

and hard to reproduce.  The sculptures are best viewed in person.  My favorite piece was the Winged Victory in the Louvre; that was worth the trip

alone.  The Venus de Milo was also very special.  The Mona Lisa is behind glass, and you can't get that close.  A good photograph might be more

meaningful.  We had trouble finding taxis at some key points, so if you have a cell phone and can figure out the system that hotels and restaurants use

to call taxis, that might work best.  I spent too much time in museums instead of enjoying the fine food, chestnut pastries and atmosphere of Paris.  I

really liked L'OpenTour with the plug-in audio and hop-on/hop-off approach.  Their four loops were more convenient than the city bus system or the

Metro.  Mon Dieu!  The stairs in the Metro were awful for weary tourists.  There are no escalators.  My favorite cafe was the Cafe Varenne at Varenne

and Rue du Bac.  (No offense to David Lebovitz, but I thought the hot chocolate at Cafe Varenne was better than at Patisserie Viennoise.) The block

south of there is fabulous for shopping . . . Angelina's pastries were the best.  The Rick Steves' free audio podcasts were very helpful, and I tore

out the relevant pages from his guide book for each day's excursions.  I wish I had spent more time in the Montmartre, especially to enjoy the

carrousel.  WARNING - Engineers may not appreciate the Parisian focus on beauty over functionality. Maybe go to London instead and just take the

Chunnel train over for 2 days in Paris.


Although most of the people were helpful when I needed help, a few people in the service industry seemed to be related to the Marquis de Sade.  Perhaps

they were really just soliciting tips in a subtle way, i.e. to get an outdoor table at the cafe at the Louvre or to use the restroom at the Eiffel

Tower.  But it was soul numbing.